Full Chainguard For Beauty

the-new-chain-guardLast week, we ordered a full chainguard for Wifey’s bike from Yellow Jersey.  They sell roadsters based on the original Raleigh roadster design and manufactured in India, but the chainguards Yellow Jersey sells are made in China.  I don’t care, so long as it is metal, fits, and does it’s job.  That job is to prolong chain life by keeping it clean, and prolong pants legs life by keeping them out of the chainwheel and chain.  A plastic full chainguard is certainly better than a hockey stick type, but will eventually grow brittle and crack, plus, I haven’t seen any as cheap as this one: $50.00.old-one-removedHere, I have removed the old hockey stick type chainguard, and will remove the bracket from the downtube.  I had to unbolt the seatstay to get the rear part of the guard off.breaking-the-chainBreaking the chain.  A good chain tool is important for this.  This is the original chain for Beauty, and in perfect shape with no stretch (I measured it).  Beauty had low miles.  The Beast required a new chain when I installed it’s full chainguard.  chain-cleaningThis chain still needed some serious cleaning, though.  Previous owner had used a cheap, vegetable-based oil on all moving parts, leaving behind a gummy residue.  dirty-waterI put the chain in a shampoo bottle with hot water and a couple drops of dish soap and shook vigorously.  Look at that dirty water!scrubbing-chain-with-old-toothbrushI finished up with a good scrub with an old toothbrush and a good soaking with foaming degreaser.squeaky-clean-chainNice, clean chain, which I hung up to dry. removing-cotter-pin1I then turned my attention elsewhere for awhile.  Removing crankpins without the special driver/remover is a risky operation.  I still bent this pin a little, but it came out fine.  I always loosen the nut, but don’t remove it until the pin is loose enough not to need hammering.braze-on-for-chain-guard1Most full chainguards clamp to the chainstay, but Raleigh roadsters come with a braze-on for that purpose.  It fits the same bolt that attaches chainstay to seatstay.  I somehow lucked-up and had several of them, from where, I don’t know.  drilling-hole-for-chain-guard-braze-on This meant drilling a hole in the chainguard for the attachment bolt.  Step drillbits are so convenient, and cut a clean hole.  I had to clean shavings out of the chainguard, but it arrived plenty dirty on the inside, anyways.  inserting-chainWith the chain dry, it was time to attach the chainguard to the bike.  Putting the chain through beforehand it is important, as the alternative is to attach the chainguard and then turn the bike vertical to get the chain to fall through the chainguard.tab-for-rear-sprocketThis is the aggravating part of this process, mainly because I refused to remove the rear wheel to do it.  Part of the chainguard had to be removed in order to go through the chainstay.  A curved piece of sheetmetal was produced to go there, using the same bolts that attach the guard to the chainstay.  I attached the tab first with the lower bolt and folded it backwards, then put the guard through the chainstay and pushed the tab up using an aviation scribe.  There was a threaded bar on the backside that also  had to be pushed up and aligned with the upper hole.  Complicating all this was the fact that the chainstay was flat here, causing the clamp to not fit right.  Luckily, I had some longer metric bolts that fit. bolting-tab-and-rear-of-guard-to-chainstayreattaching-chainI then reattached the chain.  It is important to drive the pin only far enough to be even, then work the link back and forth to get rid of the bind.lubing-chainI reattached the crank, being sure to drive the cotter pin in with a few blows of a hammer.  I only recently learned this technique, always thinking before that the nut on the cotter pin got it tight enough.  No wonder my cranks always came loose before.  Here, I was lubing the chain.  Just because a chain is covered and clean doesn’t mean it doesn’t need lube.  The nice thing about a full chainguard is you can put a good bit on without worries of attracting dirt.  electrical-tape-on-guard-elbowEvery Chinese chainguard fits differently- the one on my bike had a serious gap between elbow and rear sprocket hub, so I made-up the difference with two pieces of electrical tape.  The gap isn’t so bad on Beauty, so it only needed one piece.  attaching-pie-plateI had to remove the pedal to attach the pie plate because it is a modern platform-type.  A period block pedal would fit right through the sliding window.  A word to the wise- positioning the hole toward the top, above the crank will keep the sheetmetal window from sliding off and disappearing at an inopportune time.  😉 finished-chain-guardThe finished product.  It rubs a tiny bit, but it’s hard to find a full chainguard that doesn’t rub in some way.  Now, Honey can wear bellbottums or broomskirts with no problems!


3 thoughts on “Full Chainguard For Beauty

  1. Great step-by-step. I have not thought about getting a chain guard for my bike, but after reading this, I just may. I do like the simplicity of a chain guard. I have it on one of my bikes but not on my commuter bike (although I really should).

  2. Thank you! Not having to roll your right pants leg, strap or clip it is liberating. So is not having to change clothes just to go for a ride.

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