This is Wifey’s “new” bike, a 1980 Raleigh DL-1 Women’s Tourist. It’s now my new project. As far as paint and overall condition, it’s better than mine, but the chrome is more rusted and pitted, and there are some issues to be sorted-out.
I must give huge props to the two owners of University Cycles for giving me the opportunity to buy these bikes. They could’ve just put them out on the used bike rack and had them gone long ago, but they held onto them for many months while I raised the funds for purchase. These men, both named John like me, added some freebies into the deal, like a new saddle on hers and thornproof innertube liners in mine. I gave them two dozen fresh eggs.
This is the other freebie, A wrecked, incomplete, rusty DL-1. It doesn’t show in the photo, but the fork is badly bent. However, there is a good rear subframe, seatpost, crankset, bottum bracket, front wheel, mudguards, and handlebar assembly. Neither my wife or I am into full-on restoration, so we have two sets of slightly rusty original Nottingham-produced block rubber pedals up for sale: $20 a set plus shipping. Just leave me a comment with a way to get in touch with you. They are definitely cleanable.
And thus begins my work on this bike. I am lubing the 3-speed hub. About 9 or 10 drops of 5W-40 synthetic motor oil. This hub doesn’t seem gummed-up to me, but if there is any residue in there, this will clean it off and still lube everything just fine. From the looks of the residue I am seeing on the chain and elsewhere on the bike, previous owner(s) used a common household vegetable-based oil. A mineral-based light machine oil doesn’t leave behind a gummy residue. A syringe with hose on the end is a good way to get oil where you want it.
I decided while there was still light, to tackle handlebar and britework issues. Here, you can see that a brake lever mount has come loose. The curved nut on the backside is loose inside the bar. How in the world such a thing was ever installed in the first place is beyond me. I sure had aggravation getting that thing back. I took the bars completely off, shook them back-and-forth to locate the nut, used an aviation pick to position the nut over the hole, and while holding the bars with the hole straight-down, screwed the brake lever mount back in. Took several frustrating tries to nail-down. Compressing the spring to reinstall the brake lever was not easy, either.
While I had the brake lever off, though, I decided to clean some of the rust off the britework. Since I don’t have any fine steel wool on-hand, I took an idea from Flying Pigeon Project Blog and used crumpled aluminum foil and WD-40. I rather think that the foil will scratch things less, anyways, as it’s a softer metal. I don’t like the satiny look chrome gets after a flogging with steel wool.
It got dark on me fairly quick, but I was able to get everything back together.
Tomorrow, I will cover brake adjustment and saddle problems.